How to Travel Northern Hokkaido by Bus: From Abashiri to Shari, Asahikawa to Esashi

▷ What This Guide Will Help You With

If you’ve ever tried planning a trip to the more remote corners of northern Hokkaido, you’ve probably encountered one of these problems:

• How do I get from Abashiri to Shari (gateway to Shiretoko)?
• What’s the best way to travel from Asahikawa to Esashi, a hidden fishing town near the Sea of Okhotsk?
• Are there trains or only buses? Is car rental required?

This guide will walk you through realistic, up-to-date routes using public transportation, including bus networks that have replaced defunct train lines. Based on both official transportation data and traveler experiences, you’ll be able to plan efficiently—even for areas that seem “off the grid.”

🚍 Quick Navigation: Overview of Routes

🛣 Abashiri → Shari (Gateway to Shiretoko)

✅ Option 1: Direct JR Train

• Line: JR Senmō Main Line (釧網本線)
• Station: Abashiri → Shiretoko-Shari Station (知床斜里駅)
• Duration: ~50 minutes (local), ~40 min (limited express)
• Fare: ~¥1,000
• Frequency: ~6 trains/day

✅ Option 2: Abashiri–Shari Bus

• Operator: Abashiri Bus / Shari Bus
• Duration: ~45–50 minutes
• Fare: ¥1,040
• Depart from: Abashiri Bus Terminal
• Notes: Bus also connects to Utoro for travelers heading directly into Shiretoko National Park

🧳 Recommendation: The bus option is great for travelers with large luggage, as it connects to tourist destinations without train transfers.

🛣 Asahikawa → Esashi (道北ルート)

There is no direct train service to Esashi. The JR line between Asahikawa and Esashi (via Hamatonbetsu and Otoineppu) was discontinued, and the region now relies on intercity buses.

✅ Option: Urban Intercity Bus (「えさし号」/「天北号」)

• Route: Asahikawa → Otoineppu → Hamatonbetsu → Esashi
• Duration: ~4.5 hours (including transfers)
• Fare: Approx. ¥4,000
• Notes: Requires pre-scheduling due to limited departures (1–2 per day)

🚧 These buses function as railway substitutes, serving remote towns that used to be connected by train.

🚌 Hamatonbetsu → Esashi (Local Transport)

✅ Sōya Bus Route (宗谷バス)

• Route: Hamatonbetsu → Esashi Bus Terminal
• Duration: ~40 minutes
• Fare: ¥730
• Frequency: ~2–3 per day
• Notes: This is a rural route with very few passengers—some travelers report being the only rider onboard.

📖 Traveler Voices from the North

▶ Case 1: Riding a Nearly Empty Bus from Hamatonbetsu to Esashi

A solo traveler in mid-summer reported being one of just two passengers on the rural bus from Hamatonbetsu to Esashi.

“The ride took about 40 minutes, and it felt like a glimpse into local life—quiet roads, small villages, and a sleepy coastline. It was actually one of the highlights of my trip.”

Key insight: These routes offer not just transport but immersion. You’re not in touristland anymore—you’re in Japan’s “unfiltered north.”

▶ Case 2: Asahikawa to Esashi – Discovering the Train No Longer Exists

Another traveler expected to take a train to Esashi, only to realize the line was discontinued.
They discovered that intercity buses had replaced the train and booked one via a hotel concierge.

“It wasn’t fast, but it was reliable. You need to understand that in Hokkaido, buses are lifelines—not backup plans.”

Key insight: Don’t assume trains go everywhere in Japan—especially in Hokkaido.

▶ Case 3: Choosing Bus Over Train for Abashiri → Shari

While trains are romanticized, one hiker heading to Shiretoko chose the bus for its direct connection to Utoro.

“It dropped me right in front of my guesthouse in Utoro—no transfers. Much easier than navigating from the train station.”

Key insight: Even when trains exist, buses may be more functional for reaching natural areas.

🌤 Seasonal & Planning Considerations

💡 Local tourist offices or your hotel often help with bus timetables—don’t hesitate to ask even with basic English.

💬 Reflection: Is It Worth the Effort?

Absolutely—if you’re the kind of traveler who seeks authentic places, away from the bullet train map.

These routes through northern Hokkaido are:

• Slow, yes.
• Infrequent, often.
• Confusing, sometimes.

But they offer something rare: a chance to experience rural Japan as it is, not curated for tourists.
You’ll meet locals, pass through fishing villages and untouched landscapes, and understand the logistics of daily life in one of Japan’s most remote regions.

The challenge becomes part of the journey—and the memory.

🎯 Final Tips Before You Travel

1. Double-check all bus times—even official websites may lack English updates.
2. Don’t rush connections; bus–train links are rarely timed well.
3. Bring cash for rural tickets and snacks (many routes have no vending machines).
4. Stay overnight if your route includes towns like Esashi or Otoineppu.
5. Use buses not just for access, but for experience—ride slow, look out the window.

🔗 References & Sources

• 網走バス：知床エアポートライナー（Abashiri Bus – Shiretoko Airport Liner）
• 宗谷バス公式：浜頓別〜枝幸路線時刻表
• 知床アクセスガイド（Hokkaido-Labo）
• 旅ブログ：宗谷バスに乗った実体験（note）
• えさし号・天北号など都市間バス情報（道北バス）